Chateau de Chenonceau

On Wednesday I rented a minivan with driver ( my buddy Jerome ) and we all drove out into the Loire valley to visit castles. On Jerome's recommendation we decided to do only two castles very well rather than rush through three or four. And Jerome was correct, this is a much better way to see these places.


We drove by Ambrose and stopped for some outside photo's but the first intense visit was Chenonceau.


Built in the early XVIth century by Catherine Briçonnet, the Château de Chenonceau got its splendor from the successive women who kept expanding and enhancing it throughout the centuries, including Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medicis, respectively best mistress and wife of Henry II, before Louise de Lorraine, Madame Dupin and Madame Pelouze.


The "Château of the Ladies" is an exceptional jewel of the French Renaissance and one of the most attended castles after the Château de Versailles from the gardens to the bedrooms and living rooms, through to the wax museum. It truly has a unique ambiance defying the centuries.

The Château de Chenonceau is located in the Tourain region, over the river Cher, near the city of Tours, 200 kilometers from Paris.


It is approached through a long, shady avenue of trees. As you near the chateau, a lovely walled garden can be seen on both sides. The chateau actually sits over the River Cher. It is thus necessary to cross a small drawbridge to gain access to Chenonceau. The graceful beauty of the chateau is reflected in the waters of the river.

The touch of the women who lived here for over 400 years can be felt immediately. While it is fairly large and beautifully designed, it is also a place that feels livable and is a lot smaller than I expected. The proportions are comfortable instead of overwhelming.

Chenonceau has a colorful history. In the 13th century a fortress and mill stood on this spot. In 1513, the old building was destroyed and the current one begun. Francis I eventually confiscated the place and used it for hunting and receptions. Henry II ensconced his mistress Diane de Poitiers here. He meant for her to occupy the chateau in comfort. However, Catherine de Medicis, his legal wife, who was also in residence in the chateau, had other plans. So not only is the place beautiful but it also has its share of intrigue and plotting.

Since the chateau actually spans the River Cher it is possible to enter on one side of the river and exit on the other. An enclosed 60-meter long gallery leads from the back of the chateau to the other side of the river. It is said that Diane de Poitiers rode her horse through the gallery so that she could hunt on both sides of the river. The chateau is currently owned by the Menier family.

But what surprised me was how small it is inside given its history. It certainly is very large and grand by our standards and it also looks big in the pictures. But after visiting the various places in and around Paris where Royalty lived through the centuries ( Palais-Royale, Versailles, Fountainbleau ) you build an image in your mine that these Loire Valley castles are of similar dimensions ... some are but not Chenonceau. It is actually quite small inside all things considered and you wonder how Henry II managed to have both his wife and his mistress living in it at the same time. I walked through all the rooms and Catherine DeMedici's study where she made many of her biggest decisions on running the country and it is about 25 square metres ... small by any definition. I'll post some interior pictures which might demonstrate this but with this blog I'm only posting some exterior pics.

Life is good ... enjoy

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