Forget the baguette. It’s a modern invention that traditionalists scoff at. No, France’s ancient bread is a large, round, sourdough boule. And perhaps Paris’s most famous traditional bakery is Poilane, the legendary shop with a tragic family history, whose master bakers still create each sturdy, slightly tart loaf by hand.
Aside from the oversized boules, Poilâne makes raisin or walnut loaves, butter cookies called punitions or “punishments,” sumptuously flaky croissants, apple tarts, or pain au chocolat, and also brioche bread. The bakery has been in the family for three generations, passed down from its founder Pierre to his son Lionel. Tragically, in 2002, Lionel and his wife died in a helicopter accident. Though weighed by grief, the small staff resolved to continue, not missing a day of baking bread. Lionel’s daughter, Appolonia, who was only 19 at the time of the accident, immediately took over the family business and continues to run it today.
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